The Grand Cru that Alvina and Philippe believe will respond most to their work. Bienvenues sits at the northeastern corner of Bâtard-Montrachet, on land slightly richer and deeper than the Bâtard above it, with a higher proportion of clay. The wines from it have always been distinguished by a balance of finesse and drive, an elegance that runs ahead of any pursuit of power. The smaller of the two plots was planted in 1967, on roots almost sixty years old, and the couple's tension-first style is built to embrace the kind of fruit those vines produce. They are also clear-eyed about something else: in their view, Bienvenues was the most overlooked of the family's Grands Crus during the years it was farmed by Paul Pernot, and the parcel they have inherited is the one in which they see the most untapped potential. It is, in their own words, the cuvée they intend to bichonner, the French verb both Alvina and Philippe use with affection, meaning to look after with close, careful, almost doting attention.